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There are two major factors that might prohibit
a basement renovation project from becoming a reality; inadequate
headroom and moisture problems.
The first step is to measure your basement for headroom. Local
building code requirements for basement headroom are basically the
same as for an attic; 7½-feet from finished floor to ceiling.
Additionally, overhead obstructions such as ducts or pipes must
have at least a 7-foot clearance from finished floor to finished
ceiling. And overhead obstructions must be spaced at least 4-feet
apart. Bathrooms and hallways must be at least 7-feet from finished
floor to ceiling.
In most cases, it is not feasible to add headroom to a basement.
However, new technology exists that may allow additional headroom
if the house is going to be jacked up and a new basement floor poured.
It is at this time that foundation footings might be extended deeper
into the ground to accommodate a higher basement ceiling.
Working around code requirements is sometimes possible by moving
overhead pipes and ducts; beams and other obstructions can sometimes
be hidden within walls, closets, or inhabitable spaces. Also, some
local codes allow lower headroom for special use rooms, such as
recreation rooms.
If your basement passes code requirements for adequate headroom,
you are ready to address the next critical factor – moisture.
If any moisture problems exist, they must be corrected before undertaking
a basement renovation project.
Even small amounts of moisture can wreak havoc; causing framing
to rot, drywall to crumble, and the growth of mold or mildew to
spawn. Moisture problems can usually be corrected. But the process
takes a certain amount of expertise, and time. Once corrections
have been made, you will have to wait to make certain that no new
moisture problems will develop during seasonal changes.
Moisture intrudes into basements in two ways; condensation and
seepage:
Condensation – high humidity from outside air, poor ventilation,
appliances, and damp walls are all conditions that can cause condensation
to form in the basement.
Seepage – moisture that enters in through cracks in the floor
or foundation, or that leeches through masonry is referred to as
seepage. This is commonly caused by poor drainage around the foundation,
which allows rainwater or a rising underground water table to enter
into the basement.
Whether or not you have experienced moisture in the basement since
living in the house, look for signs of past problems. Check for
peeling paint, white residue on masonry, buckled floor tile, rotted
baseboards, stained walls, sweating pipes or windows, rusted appliance
feet, any visible mold or mildew, as well as musty or moldy odors.
Condensation/Seepage Test
If signs of a moisture problem exist, locate the source. A test
for condensation can be made by taping a square of plastic or aluminum
foil to the floor; a second on the inside of an exterior foundation
wall. Be sure all edges are securely taped down. After several days,
check the squares. Moisture on the top surface of the square will
indicate a condensation problem; moisture on the underside of the
square will indicate a seepage problem.
To reduce condensation, you must reduce humidity in the air. Insulate
water pipes to prevent condensation dripping, and run a dehumidifier
in the dampest part of the basement. Make sure clothes dryers and
other appliances are properly vented to the outside. Central air
conditioning will help reduce humidity during warm summer months.
Improperly vented crawlspaces can also promote condensation, so
check with your local building inspector for venting advice specific
to your climate.
Locating the Source
Preventing or correcting a seepage problem can turn a simple do-it-yourself
project into an extensive excavation and foundation repair ordeal.
So before calling in a backhoe, try these and other simple tests
for answers and cures first. While it can be difficult to pinpoint
the exact source of seepage, a good place to start is the grade
of your yard.
The first 6-feet around the foundation should slope away from the
house structure at a ratio of 1-inch per foot, and at least ¼-inch
per foot after that. Test the grade of your yard using a long board,
a level, and a tape measure; make any necessary adjustments by building
the ground up around the house foundation.
Additional Tips
Rain gutters and downspouts should be checked and cleaned if necessary.
Gutters should slope slightly toward the downspout at a rate of
1/16-inch per foot, and downspouts should have extensions directing
drainage at least 8-feet away from the foundation. In addition,
there should be one downspout for every 50-feet of eave.
Interior treatments to a foundation can help minor seepage problems;
consider waterproof masonry sealant or hydraulic cement. More serious
problems will require more extensive treatment.
For surface drainage, landscape drains can be installed around
the perimeter of the foundation. This can be accomplished by digging
a trench and inserting perforated drain pipe in gravel near the
surface.
While this may solve surface drainage problems, a sump pump or
foundation footing drains may be necessary to deal with high water
table problems. Installing a sump system requires breaking out concrete,
installing drain pipes in gravel under the floor, and installing
a sump pit and pump to purge excess water.
Foundation footing drains are the last resort. This involves excavating
around the foundation, installing gravel and a drain system to drain
water away from foundation footings, and sealing the exterior of
the foundation wall.
When evaluating your basement, find out if your home already has
one of these systems that may just need cleaning or repair.
Project Planning
Once you have evaluated your basement for adequate headroom requirements,
and have checked for and corrected any moisture problems, it is
time to proceed. And draw up plans for your project.
As with attic renovation projects it is a good idea to obtain original
blueprints; either from the builder who completed the home, or the
local building authority. Consult with an architect, engineer, or
building contractor to ensure your plans meet local building codes.
And that supporting walls will not be compromised with renovation
plans. Keep in mind that if you plan to add plumbing features, the
basement floor concrete will have to broken out for the drain pipes.
Work with the professional to develop a materials list and the
estimated cost of your project. You may have to adjust plans to
meet code requirements and budget restrictions. Once you have developed
final plans that feature design preferences and meet any budget
restrictions, it is time for work to begin.
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