Some types of window installation will definitely require the services
of an experienced window installer. However, a DIY homeowner with
advanced carpentry skills who is familiar with framing can usually
handle a window installment project on their own. Especially when
working with standard-style windows 3 ½-feet wide or smaller.
Wall construction/anatomy knowledge is important when installing
windows. Before beginning a window installation project, you might
want to refer back to Chapter 1, House Structure Basics, under sections
“Walls
– Interior and Exterior” and “Walls
– Load and Non-load Bearing,” found on page
30.
Guidelines for Window Installation Project Success
- Following the clearance recommendations of the window manufacturer,
size the placement window slightly smaller than the opening. Carefully
measure for the window’s opening; width, height, and depth.
Note: vinyl frames require more clearance than those made from
other materials.
- Carefully plan the window’s location to avoid plumbing,
heating, electrical lines. Note: while wiring can easily be relocated
to accommodate new window placement, pipes and ductwork are another
matter entirely.
- Check local building codes before replacing old windows with
new. There may be certain guidelines that must be met; such as
window type, size, grade of window and glass type used. In addition,
wind load guidelines for coastal and mountainous areas may also
apply.
- When ordering windows from the manufacturer, allow extra time
for custom-sized windows, and windows using tempered glass. High-performance
windows with special coatings usually require an even longer lead
time.
- Carefully consider new window rough-in dimensions; the exterior
opening needs to be only slightly larger.
- Make sure new window installation is level, square, and plumb.
Otherwise, the sash will not close properly and weather stripping
may not provide a proper seal.
- Work from the inside out. Mark window location, and then remove
the wall surface from ceiling to floor; to the inner edge of the
first stud on either side of the rough-in measurement.
- Wait until just before inserting the window to cut the exterior
sheathing and siding.
- Pre-drilling fins and frames is recommended; countersink anchors
installed through wood jambs.
- When installing windows with wood frames, use a good-quality
primer and exterior paint or sealer. Untreated wood or wood not
properly protected that is exposed to outside elements will warp
and deteriorate.
- Follow manufacturer’s recommendations on acceptable protective
coatings and application techniques to avoid damage to new, unpainted
wood framed windows.
- When wood is cedar or redwood and paint is used instead of a
sealer, a special primer is required to prevent wood oils from
bleeding through the finish.
- When painting frames, remove sashes first; put back together
once paint has completely dried. Never apply paint to weather
stripping or other non-wood parts.
- Allow about 8 to 10 hours to complete a window installation
project.
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Also, when replacing old, standard-glass windows consider safety
or tempered glass as replacements. In fact, this may be a building
code requirement. Such code requirements normally exist for windows
subject to “human impact.”
Human Impact Windows
Human impact windows are those attached to entrance doors, and
windows adjacent to a door. Also included are windows placed within
a certain distance arc from a closed door; usually 24-inches.
Windows larger than 9-feet are considered human impact windows
when the bottom is less than 18-inches above the floor and the top
more than 36-inches above the floor. And windows placed within a
horizontal walking path of 36-inches to the window.
Actual Installation
Tools required for window installation:
- Hammer
- Corrosion-resistant nails / screws
- Chisel
- Keyhole saw or reciprocating saw
- Circular saw
- Carpenter’s square
- Level
- Nail set
- Caulking gun
- Standard drywall or plaster tools
Materials required:
- 2X4 trimmers
- Enough 2X4 to construct a sill with cripple studs as outlined
in step 6 of “How to Install a Window” (see below)
- Enough 2X6 and ½-inch plywood to construct a header
for the window opening as outlined in step 5 of “How to
Install a Window” (see below)
- Shims
- Materials required to refinish the interior wall once window
installation is completed
- Caulk
How to Install a Window
If applicable, remove the old window, and then follow these 12
easy steps for new window installation:
- Once you have carefully planned new window placement, mark the
opening.
- Using a chisel and then a keyhole or reciprocating saw, cut
the opening for the window from the ceiling to the floor along
bordering studs. Be sure and leave the sole plate intact.
- Remove any studs that will be interrupted by the window. Cut
through the center; carefully pry them away from the sheathing.
Also remove any other obstructions, if any; including loose materials
and old caulk.
- Nail 2X4 trimmers to the studs located at either side of the
opening; the trimmers will support the window’s headers.
- Build a header; use two 2X6 boards with a scrap of ½-inch
plywood sandwiched in between. Install the header on top of the
trimmers.
- Build a 2X4 sill supported by cripple studs. And then nail
2X4s between the header and sill, framing the side jambs at the
rough-in dimension width.
- Cut out the exterior sheathing and siding. If working from the
outside, drill pilot holes to mark corners first.
- Set the window in place from the outside; make sure it is level
and plumb. Trace around the molding; cut away siding to the trace
line.
- Level the window again. Insert shims, and nail the window to
the framing through the exterior casing into the studs.
- Inside, insert shims and nail the sides of the window frame
(the jambs) to the studs.
- Insulate between the frame and studs; foam backer rod or loosely
packed insulation is the preferred. Non-expanding, one-part polyurethane
foam is acceptable if carefully installed and not used in excess
– which could cause frame distortion. NEVER USE EXPANDING
FOAM. Note: do not over pack insulation between the window frame
and studs. This could put too much pressure on the window frame
and distort it; impeding smooth operation of the sash.
- Refinish the interior wall, and then attach the inside window
casing. Caulk around the window frame on the exterior.
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