If you are a homeowner with intermediate carpentry skills and don’t
mind the work, mess, and time involvement, you might consider taking
your old kitchen cabinets down and replacing them with new as a do-it-yourself
project. Unless, of course, you will be replacing old cabinets
with custom-made; in which case the cabinet builder should do the
installation work his or her self to ensure workmanship and dimension
accuracy of each unit.
To remove old cabinets yourself you will need the following:
- Measuring tape
- Level
- Phillips and flat-head screwdrivers
- Shims
- Hammer
- Stud sensor
- Drill with drill bits and screwdriver attachment
- Hole saw
- Decorative molding or valance
- Trim
- Finish nails
- Chalk line
- Utility knife
- Safety glasses
Wall Cabinets
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The most difficult part of hanging wall cabinets is lifting them
to the appropriate height and holding them in place. This makes
installing wall cabinets a 2-person job.
- Remove old cabinets; repair any holes in the walls.
- Locate wall studs using the stud finder. Snap vertical chalk
lines to indicate either stud centers or edges. Note: studs are
spaced at regular intervals. Most common is 16-inches, although
24-inch intervals are sometimes used in newer houses. Once you
locate one stud and determine the distance to the next, measure
to locate others.
- Measure 54-inches up from the floor at both ends of the wall;
this is the standard height of wall cabinets. Snap a horizontal
chalk line.
- Start in the corner, at the highest floor point; nail up a 1X3
temporary straight so it is level. It may not match the vertical
chalk line if the floor is not level.
- Place either a corner or end cabinet on the temporary straight;
make sure it is level. Drill 3/16-inch pilot holes through the
top hanging strip inside the cabinet into wall studs. Drive 2
½-inch roundhead screws into the pilot holes.
- Position the next cabinet on the temporary straight, snug against
the first; make sure it is level. Drill 3/16-inch pilot holes
through the top hanging strip inside the cabinet into wall studs.
Drive 2 ½-inch roundhead screws into the pilot holes.
- Install remaining wall cabinets following step 6.
- Clamp together face frames of adjacent cabinets; counterbore
2 ½-inch drywall screws through the inside edge of one
face frame to the other.
- Fit a filler strip into the remaining gap at the wall juncture.
Attach the filler strip to the face frame of the last cabinet
with counter sunk screws.
- Remove the temporary straight; plumb cabinet fronts by shimming
between the wall and bottom hanging strip of the cabinet at stud
points.
- Drill 3/16-inch pilot holes; attach bottom hanging strip to
shim and stud using 2 ½-inch roundhead screws. Trim shims
using a utility knife.
- Apply trim using finish nails to cover gaps between the backs
of cabinets and wall. Stain or paint trim to match cabinets.
- Fill the gap between cupboards over the sink space using decorative
molding or a valance; stained or painted to match the cabinet.
Secure in place using counterbore screws through adjacent face
frames into the valance.
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Base Cabinets
- Remove old cabinets; repair any holes in the walls.
- If you plan to install new vinyl flooring, do so before new
cabinet installation. If you plan to install marble, tile, or
a wood floor, use a piece of plywood the same thickness the new
floor will be; lay the plywood under the cabinets to serve as
a height reference.
- Mark the locations of wall studs using the stud finder. Note:
studs are spaced at regular intervals. Most common is 16-inches,
although 24-inch intervals are sometimes used in newer houses.
Once you locate one stud and determine the distance to the next,
measure to locate others.
- Not all floors are perfectly level. You will want to use the
high point as the reference for installing the cabinets. Mark
a level line at the height of the base cabinets at the highest
point of the room floor.
- Set a cabinet in place; level it to the line by tapping wood
shims under low points. Level cabinet front to back, and from
side to side.
- Drill pilot holes into a stud; drive screws through cabinet
framing into the stud using the drill screwdriver attachment.
- Once cabinet is level and securely in place, remove any shims
using a hammer and chisel.
- Clamp together face frames of adjacent cabinets. Counterbore
screws into the inside edge of one face frame, ¼-inch into
the other.
- Follow steps 5 to 8 for installation of remaining bottom cabinets.
- Before installing the sink cabinet, measure from the reference
line to the top and bottom of the drain and water supply pipes;
measure from the side of the adjacent cabinet to both sides of
the drain. Transfer measurements to the back of the sink cabinet;
drill appropriate holes using a hole saw.
- Complete the job by installing molding or filler strips to
cover any gapes between the counter and the walls or floor.
Note: if a thin shim is required between cabinets
to compensate for minor irregularities, make sure face edges butt
tightly.
Handy Tips for Project Success
- Schedule enough time to complete the project. Once old base
and wall cabinets have been removed, expect to spend 4 to 5 hours
for a straight run of cabinets; more if corner cabinets are complicated.
- Before installing cabinets, separate base cabinets from wall
cabinets. Install wall cabinets first so you don’t have
to lean over base cabinets.
- Remove cupboard doors before installing wall cabinets; they
will be lighter and easier to handle.
- Use the type screws specified by the manufacturer; drive screws
through frames as opposed to the back or side panels, which are
thinner and less sturdy.
Note: another, more cost-effective
alternative to replacing old kitchen cabinets with new is this.
If old cabinet construction is still sound and strong, give them
a “face lift.” Clean, sand, and refinish just the doors,
or all cabinetry – if needed; Replace handles, knobs, and
any other hardware desired, with new. This can save a considerable
amount of money in renovation costs, while yielding great results.
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