Whether installing a bathroom sink or a kitchen sink, the procedure
is basically the same.
There are three basic types of counter sinks used in bathrooms
and kitchens:
- Self-rimming drop-in sinks with clamps. This
type sink is very common in stainless steel double sink or single
sink models for kitchen use, and porcelain or stainless steel
for bathroom use. Self-rimming drop-in sinks feature a “rim”
or lip around the perimeter. They drop into a pre-cut hole in
the counter top so that the rim rests directly on the counter
top, and are fastened in place using special clamps below. Caulking
is applied around the rim to provide a water seal; or plumber’s
putty is used under the rim.
- Self-rimming drop-in sinks without clamps.
This type sink is simply dropped into the opening so that the
rim rests on the counter top; clamping underneath is not necessary.
Usually porcelain or ceramic, they are held in place with a bead
of caulking around the rim. This holds it to the counter top and
provides a water seal.
- Recessed or undermount sinks. This type sink
rests on a plywood base under the counter top level, creating
a seamless flow. It is popular for ceramic tile, natural stone,
or other solid type material countertop, but should not be used
with those made from laminate. This is because of inevitable “bubbling”
that will happen due to condensation that has seeped underneath.
Ceramic/porcelain or cast iron is favored over stainless steel;
due largely to the difference in expansion and contraction properties.
In some cases, double-walled stainless steel is acceptable.
Before you Begin
The first step in any sink removal/installation is shutting off
the water supply. If the water supply lines under the sink do not
have shut-off valves on them, now is a good time to have some installed.
Reasonably priced, high-quality flexible vinyl hose kits are available
in most hardware or building supply centers. Be sure to size fittings
accurately for both the supply lines and faucet fixtures. Installing
shut-off valves in supply lines will make future sink installation
and maintenance easier and handier. It will also provide quick access
for emergency shut-off.
Sink Replacement – Same Size as Old
If you are replacing an old sink with a new one into an existing
counter top opening, you will need to install one that is the exact
same size as the old.
After removing the old sink, check the counter top for any water
damage and rot. If any is detected, make necessary repairs. If the
extent of damage warrants it, replace the old counter top with a
new one.
Follow these steps for installing the sink:
- Use denatured alcohol or mineral sprits and a clean rag to cleanse
the counter top around the opening. Also clean the underside of
the new sink’s rim to prepare it for caulk or plumber’s
putty.
- To install the new sink, simply drop it into the opening; make
sure it fits with no gaps. For clamping sinks, apply a thin ¼-inch
bead of plumber’s putty or caulk under the rim around the
opening to provide a water seal. Once the sink is aligned and
clamped firmly into place, clean off excess caulk or putty with
the rag.
- Install the faucet and connect the supply lines. Connect drains,
using a ¼-inch bead of plumber’s putty beneath the
rim of the drain assembly; press it into the opening. Screw the
tightening rim on the assembly from underneath, and tighten with
a wrench. Attach and tighten drain fittings.
- Check supply lines and drain pipes for leakage. Monitor closely
until you are sure there are no leaks. Even a slow drip left unattended
will wreck havoc under your sink cabinet.
Installing a Sink in a Countertop for the First Time
If you are installing a sink for the first time into the counter
top, it is necessary to take careful measurements for proper placement
of the sink and opening. Be sure to leave at least 1 ½ inches,
but not more than 3-inches from the edge of the counter.
Once you are sure of placement, place the sink upside down on the
counter top, and mark around the perimeter of the rim. Be sure that
the edge of the rim is parallel to the edge of the counter top.
Remove the sink, and mark a second line about 1½-inches inside
the first mark. Note: if another measurement is specified in manufacturer’s
instructions for any given sink, use that one instead.
Since a jigsaw (reciprocating saber saw) is used to cut along the
inside mark, you will need to drill a hole just inside of the inside
line at each corner big enough to insert the saw blade. It is best
to put masking tape on the bottom of the saw to avoid scratching
or other damage to the counter top.
Cut carefully, staying on the line. Do not allow the saw to wander
off of the line. When the hole is finished, insert the sink, and
check the fit. Make sure the sink is properly aligned.
Self rimming sinks without clamps are dropped
into the opening and caulked into place. Finish installation following
the 4 steps previously listed.
Recessed or undermount sinks are installed to
the bottom side of the counter top before the counter top is installed.
This type recessed sink/countertop arrangement is readily available
in a variety of pre-manufactured kits; the sink and pre-cut counter
top come ready to assemble. Some kits even come with the sink already
installed.
Caulk the edge of the sink, and put it into place. Screw it down
using the hardware that came with the sink, following manufacturer
guidelines. Once the sink is in place, the countertop installed
and sink faucets attached and secured, follow previously listed
steps 3 and 4 to connect supply lines and drain.
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