Installing Interior Doors
Follow these simple instructions for installation of interior doors:
- Set the door into the opening so that it is centered and flush
with wall surfaces. Using a level, adjust the hinge side so that
it is plumb.
- Starting near the top hinge, slide shims into the gap from both
sides of the door until it is snug. Make sure that it remains
plumb, while shimmed by every hinge.
- Using 8d casing nails secure the hinge side of the door, driving
the nails at the location of the shims.
- Repeat this process for the other side of the door; inserting
shims from both sides of the door between the top jamb and latch
side jamb and framing. Align them with the shims on the hinge
side. Adjust them so the reveal is 1/8-inch wide, or slightly
less.
- Drive nails through the jamb at the shims, into the framing.
Set all nails below the surface of the jamb with a nail set.
- Trim the shims flush with the wall surface using a hand saw.
The door is now ready to trim with door casing.
Installing Exterior Doors
From the door jamb frame and brick mold, to how to measure the rough
door opening. From installation of door header and sill plate, to
fiberglass batt insulation and building paper use. This section
on how to install an exterior house door covers it all.
The installation process for exterior doors is similar to interior
door installation, but with some variations.
Exterior doors in their framing can weigh several hundred pounds,
so make sure you have help with installation. Pre-hung exterior
doors come with brick mold. You will need to test fit the door by
setting it in the opening and shimming it until it is plumb. Then
do the following:
- Trace an outline around the brick mold onto the siding. Remove
the door, and trim the siding using the outline. Be careful to
cut just through the siding, and not into the sheathing. Be careful
around corners; use a sharp wood chisel to finish the cut.
- Slide 8-inch wide strips of building paper between the siding
and sheathing at the sides and top of the opening. Wrap the building
paper around framing members, and staple in place. This acts as
a moisture shield for the framing. Note: for extra moisture protection,
cut a piece of drip edge to fit the top of the opening. Simply
slide it between the siding and building paper; do not nail.
Apply several thick beads of silicone caulk to the subfloor on
the bottom of the opening. Also apply caulk to the front outside
edges of the building paper on the framing, both at the top and
sides of the opening.
Center the door in the opening, with the brick mold on the exterior
side. Make sure it is pushed up snug to the sheathing.
Insert shims into the space between the jamb and framing from the
inside of the door at the hinges and lockset, spaced about 12-inches
apart all around the jamb. Make sure the door remains centered and
plumb.
Remove two screws out of the top hinge plate on the door jamb.
Replace them with longer anchor screws (usually included with door
set) to reinforce anchoring to the frame.
Drive 10d galvanized casing nails through the front of the brick
mold into the framing. Space them about 12-inches apart. Use a nail
set to drive nails below the surface of the brick mold. If necessary,
adjust shims, whiling making sure the door remains plumb.
Fill the gap between the door jamb and framing with loose fiberglass
insulation.
From the out side, drive 10d galvanized casing nails into the jamb
(at the shims) and into the framing. It might be a good idea to
drill pilot holes to avoid splitting the jamb wood. Set nails below
surface using a nail set.
Remove the retaining brackets installed by manufacturer; check
the door to make sure it operates correctly.
Being careful not to strip the screws, adjust the threshold to
make a tight seal along the bottom of the door.
Trim the shims flush with framing members using a handsaw or framing
knife.
Apply paintable silicone caulk around the entire door unit.
Install the lockset and finish the door according to the manufacturer
instructions.
Install casing around the inside of the door.
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